Friday, March 16, 2012

"America is my country, and Paris is my hometown."

Gertrude Stein was right on the money with that one, wasn't she? Behold my friends, my final day in Paris is finished. The last thing I must do is pack, and take one more trip to see the Eiffel Tower light up.
And as I write this, I'm already getting upset about leaving. Damn.

I began my day with a most glorious walk to the Musee d'Orsay (after taking the Metro of course). How it has changed after being renovated!! By this time you could go all the way up, and trust me, I wish I had my camera. The view of Paris (facing Montmartre specifically) was just out of this world. Sacre Coeur (my least favorite building in Paris next to the Montparnasse Tower) was sitting on the famous hill. It really took my breath away.

The main jewel of the museum was the "Degas and the Nude" exhibit. It just amazed me at how many sketches he did of the same thing, just numerous! And as I was thinking this, I read a quote by him that read to this effect, "One must practice something ten times each, one hundred times." Well then, that answered my question! I was able to find my other favorite paintings in the museum, and also found myself the newest fan of Symbolism and Art Nouveau furniture.

After, I went over to the Tuileries, and sunbathed. The wind was blowing, the sun was shining, I had my baguette and all was right with the world.

Damn, Ben stop getting sad. Moving on!

After my time in the sun, I ventured to run an errand for ma chere maman. Along the way I stopped into l'eglise de Saint Roch, and I loved it, what a surprise! Then I went to get the shoes I've been meaning to buy. After waiting in Place des Vosges for the store to re-open, I got myself a new pair of shoes! And the owner of the store was great, when I said I spoke a little French, she laughed and worked with me, still speaking French! I was so thrilled!

I stopped back home to recharge, and made it for one final visit to le Cimetiere du Pere-Lachaise, one of my favorite places in the entire city. After some good old fashioned grave hunting, I stopped on a bench, took out my Kindle, and joined the 6 other persons reading their books. The breeze was soft, the sun setting, I could just make out the Eiffel Tower in the distance. And I stopped, looked around, and then continued on.

How lucky am I to return to Paris, how blest am I to have made a connection with the D'Ollone family that they would have me back. How lucky am I to be in a city that I know like I know Boston.

I could go on and on, but let me say this. It's an unbelieveable feeling, and a true gift, to find a city, and more importantly, to find a country that resonates with who you are. People say this when they move from different states! It really makes an impact when you find a place to study or live and it sticks with you!

Will I return here? Abso-fucking-lutely you better believe it. My goals are to explore more of this wonderful nation, but Paris will always remain as the city that took my heart. Will I live here at all? God even if it were for a month I'd kill to do that. Who knows.

But I do know this: wherever I go, France and the city of Paris will always be here, ready to greet me. Ready to stimulate my mind, excite my palate, and refresh my spirit.

So, with a happy heart and teary eyes, I thank you, Paris. Thank you for these 8 precious days.

Thursday, March 15, 2012

Reflections on Language Learning

If there's one thing that I've learned from being here it is this: I love learning the French language and I want to keep learning.

What I find frustrating: Having been removed from a French speaking environment.

What I find more frustrating in general: The way foreign language is treated in the American educational system. I could go on for days, but I think it's quite absurd that in a 21st century world, we are not giving children the opportunity to learn a second language in grade school. (How I would have loved that!) I think it's ridiculous that if I wanted to send my child to a bi-lingual school (like the French American school in Boston), most of the time it's private and it's extremely expensive.

I am also frustrated in that I feel that part of my language learning at Salve was great, and half was bad. Freshman year was great, and I was looking forward to sophomore year. Intermediate was okay, but it was only one semester. (So DUMB, make it two semesters!) Then when I was here in Paris, my language course was only so-so. I had a disorganized instructor, but being surrounded by it (plus my awesome phonetics class), I was getting comfortable. Not so much trying to learn more, but getting comfortable.

I don't think I'm still comfortable with what I know and what I'd like to know. Which is why I bought a grammar workbook today, and I've decided that I'm going to really try and apply myself. This summer, it's one of my goals. Maybe classes or a tutor, who knows! I want to put the work in. I just wish the US Department of Education would think the same way!

Oh wait there's more!

So after the museum I knew I needed to get the precious chocolat chaud from Angelina on rue de Rivoli. What was supposed to be a quick moment in the "to go" line turned into a sit down lunch complete with kir royal. The nostalgia was flooding my brain; I just wish I could have had my study abroad friends with me. Seriously, we'll need to plan a Parisian reunion.

After Angelina I sunbathed in the Tuileries, and then headed back home. I ventured to the famed Champs-Elysees for a little shopping, and that's where I got my wonderful macarons, which are all gone. Oh well.

In terms of today, it was okay. Not too much going on. I enjoyed the nice weather along the Canal St-Martin, and I went to the Marais again. I finally got some nice retail therapy at H&M. But I have more to say in my next post. Get ready.

Eating McDo, don't hate

As I sit here, eating my McDo (it's just so much better in Europe), I can't believe I fly out Saturday afternoon. Where did the time go, my God?

So yesterday, let me try to remember. Right!

I started off going to Les arts decoratifs, which focuses on interior decoration, design, etc. I went to this museum a few times with my fashion class and I remember the exhibits we saw were amazing. (It chronicled a history of fashion and the pieces displayed were jaw-dropping.)

Needless to say, LAD dropped my jaw again. Seriously folks, this place is turning into one of those "must do in Paris" sites. I personally feel it gets overlooked since it's connected to the Louvre. Okay, 2 points to the Louvre. And I think when people hear interior design, it does not sound as egalitarian. For example, everyone can admire the Mona Lisa, it's damn-well considered a masterpiece from people all over the world. Not everyone can perhaps understand interiors or jewelry design, mainly because (and I think many Americans are this way), we don't want to research. Sure a room looks pretty. You can watch HGTV and say, "Oh I like that!" But I don't think many people are willing to go further and investigate.

Okay, that's over. (This will be a 2 part post)

The exhibit was on Louis Vuitton & Marc Jacobs. It focused on each man individually, not so much comparing them but what each did for the brand. LV started it and put it on the map; Marc Jacobs revamped it and really helped it take off for our time. First off, the old fashioned trunks of Louis Vuitton's time were GORGEOUS, I want a trunk. Secondly, Marc Jacobs is American. Clearly I'm dumb, because I had no idea. I always thought he was British. But he's one of us! Rock on America! Thirdly, I really loved the pieces they displayed for what MJ has done at LV. Fourthly, Marc Jacobs, have you seen the guy? Damn, he's 48 and looks fantastic. Your genetic secrets Mr. Jacobs, please. And fifthly, (fifthly?), I couldn't get a commemorative booklet, because the one they had was 55 Euros.

I had 12 macarons... now there are 5

Seriously, I got 12 mini macarons from Ladurée and now there are only 5. I'm still trying to figure out what happened.

Any who, a quick recap of what's been happening the past 2 days and what is to come!

Yesterday was "Relive CCFS Day!" (Acronym for Cours de civilisation française de la Sorbonne, the school I studied with). I started off visiting my program headquarters and had the best visit with Jane & Danica who work with AIFS. They were so kind and enthusiastic about my return. It was surreal walking up to the office and using the computer; only a year and a half ago I was studying here in Paris. I graduate in almost two months; time certainly does fly!

I ventured to where I had my classes, the bakery I'd go to before class, and I even stumbled (legit, stumbled) upon Mass at Saint Étienne du Mont, which was both lovely and the church was cool too. I walked to the jardin du Luxembourg and sun bathed. Honestly, I sun bathed, it was heaven!!

But on a more serious note, I took the time to see the residences of Irene Nemirvosky, Helene Berr and the memorial to the martyrs of the Vel d'Hiv Roundup. Surprisingly I did not cry, but I felt an overwhelming sense of sadness. I mentioned these two women in my thesis, the Roundup itself the main part. Just an overhwleming sense of sadness.

Monday, March 12, 2012

Love, thy name is falafel

Yes yes I understand, I didn't put "love thy name is baguette" or "love thy name is pain au chocolat." Please let me explain.

Today I ventured to Le Marais (translated as "the marshes" when it used to be just that, which is the traditional Jewish quarter of Paris. (There's another area with a growing Jewish population). For those who know me well, my fascination and appreciation of Judaism and its customs goes back to birth. I really think it all started with me being named Benjamin, but that's my own theory.

I started visiting other spots:

*Le Jardin de l'Hôtel de Sens
*Le Village de Saint-Paul
*L'église de Saint-Paul Saint-Louis (Absolutely gorgeous; those Jesuits sure have taste!)
*Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (a spot that most tourists don't know of, locals love it)
*Place des Vosges (Again, so gorgeous. I'll be coming back to tour Victor Hugo's house)

And after a few twists and turns (which were quite a few), I finally arrived on rue des Rosiers, the heart of the Marais and the Jewish quarter. I had THE BEST FALAFEL SANDWICH IN THE WORLD HERE:



And later bought not one but 2 hallah's here:



And my stomach couldn't be happier. I'd like to take this opportunity to thank (and partially blame) Lisa for my addiction to Jewish food.

But this allowed me the opportunity to visit one street that pertained to my thesis. At #22 rue des Écouffes, families were taken in the Vel d'Hiv Roundup. I took a photo and kept staring at it. People probably thought I was crazy, because there wasn't a single plaque commemorating the event.

Not.
a.
single.
note.

I saw the outline of where one may have been, but nothing has been replaced. Maybe this event is still something that the French struggle commemorating. Yes, there is a statue by where the Vel d'Hiv used to be, but to have an individual marker on a building speaks more volumes.

I'm going to rest my feet, and then continue exploring. God I've missed being able to hop on a train and go anywhere. I'm going to hate driving next week.

Saturday, March 10, 2012

Mon début

Chers amis! My journey has officially begun! And it has already been an adventure.

Let's begin.

The flights over were fine, nothing big to discuss. What I can say is that it felt like I was studying abroad all over again: Flying to Heathrow, enjoying a smoothie at the same place we all got ours almost 2 years ago, looking at Harrod's but not actually going.

Then I arrived in Paris, and so my journey on the RER began. Much easier considering my luggage is much less than before. The addition? Being surrounded by very enthused Spaniards, very very enthused Spaniards. I didn't miss them when I got off.

Getting to my host family's house was nothing. I was on autopilot: Get off at Chatelet, get on line 11 to Pyrenees. Walk and take the right on rue de la Mare. In minutes. I was welcomed by my host father, and then my host mother later that afternoon. Was I tired? No! I ventured to Notre Dame & Ile Saint Louis... Unfortunately at Notre Dame then I felt the days worth of travel on my little body.

Walking around was amazing. The weather is GORGEOUS. I'm in for a week of high 50s/low 60s and sun... in Paris. Why didn't I bring shorts?!?! I then proceeded to sleep like a rock.

Aujourd'hui, j'ai rendu visite a mon amie Jamie! (FYI, Jamie is a fellow Francophile who is one of the few people who understands my love of France & Paris, truly.) She teaches English at a school in Dijon. We met at a metro stop and we ate at a favorite cafe of hers and mine, where I enjoyed baked camembert. Pictures to follow.

After we ventured to the Musee Marmottan Monet, which houses works of Monet and other Impressionists. Among that, it had some interesting work on Napoleon and manuscripts from the Middle Ages. We were also in luck; the museum had a special and very new exibition on Berthe Morisot, one of the few women who was a talented Impressionist painter in her own right. (Despite being the sister-in-law to Edouard Manet, another celebrated Impressionist).

After that we further explored the Cimetiere de Passy and Place des Etas-Unis. Then we met some of her friends. The one thing I'm leaving out: the walking. Holy GOD did we walk today, my feet are tired and blistered.

But you know? It's so worth it. When I'm here, sometimes I think, "Why don't I just teach English in France? Why don't I just drop everything to spend a year here?" And then when I'm in my element (namely, studying religion) I just want to pursue it. And frankly, I don't doubt my choice of study and future. Obviously if I could obtain another degree here or a French-speaking country I'd love it.

It has to have one condition: That it will allow me to return to France, even if I only have a week of a break, I'd want to spend it in France. I could easily keep coming to Paris, and I'd like to. But I saw a taste of France when I was abroad: the Cote d'Azur and Normandy. I'd LOVE to go back to Normandy, and venture to Provence. And who knows, with Jamie in Dijion, perhaps that shall be my next trip.

Time to keep relaxing and then to bed.